In late-September of 2020, I embarked on thru-backpacking a segment of the Border Route Trail (BRT). Nestled in the pristinely coveted Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, this 64-mile trail is described as one of the most vigorous trails in the Upper Midwest. It is minimally maintained and hardly flagged, thus making it challenging for hikers and backpackers to navigate. Some enjoy this unique character; others would spit and cuss at it. For me, I saw it as an opportunity to explore.
I first heard about the BRT during a virtual presentation in April 2020. Seeing the photos, listening to the description of its beauty, wonder and challenges, I immediately fell in love. Immediately after watching the presentation, I went online to the BRT Association website to learn more. The next day, I ordered a trail guide and maps. I was all-in to backpack the trail this fall.
Throughout the summer, I trained and prepped. I measured out my route, where I wanted to start and go. I contacted lodges for parking and drop-off, making reservations to do so. By the time the month of September arrived, I was ready for this exciting adventure. I would start at the eastern terminus of the BRT and hike back to Clearwater Lodge (a good halfway point).
Below are my journal entries I wrote while out on the trail. I conclude with an epilogue, sharing my reflections mere days after returning to society after being in isolation.
-----
18 September 2020
Weather conditions: Sunny, clear, slight breeze
Arrived at the eastern terminus trailhead of BRT at 4pm. Was dropped off by Eric, manager of the historic Clearwater Lodge. Left the lodge at 2pm. We had a great conversation about the current events, how he has been navigating the lodge to remain afloat during the pandemic, and just life in general. Damn, I love Minnesota people. Always so kind.
As I embarked on the trail, I was filled with an array of different feelings. Scared, excited, nervous, and lots of anxiety. Just don’t want to die. I already look forward getting home to see family and friends. This is usually how I always start feeling with every rugged, intense outdoor trip such as this. I know I will be fine.
Began hike at about 4pm and totaled 6.4 miles. At the trailhead, I met up with an individual who is starting their trip along the Superior Hiking Trail. The Border Route Trail eastern terminus shares the northern terminus beginning of the SHT. We hiked the first couple of miles together, relishing hearty conversations and getting each other hyped up for our own journeys. Once it was time to go our separate ways, we wished each other well and to enjoy the trip.
Got lost trying to find campsite. The campsite on the map is no longer available. Chose to make camp on what looks to be a maintenance access trail at around 7pm. Losing light so figured this was for the best. 6.4 miles in three hours is pretty good, considering. Decided tomorrow will be another 6-mile day. Start the trek by taking it easy and make it to McFarland Lake State Campground. Reviewing the maps, I think Sunday will push for 15 miles to Clearwater Lake East Camp. Monday I will go for the return to Clearwater Lodge.
Overall, the first section was magnificent but had moments of challenge. As it known, the trail is minimally maintained with hardly any flags to mark where to go. One must rely on compass and map. If you are fortunate and have the pro-membership of the “AllTrails” mobile app, you can use that to help navigate your way. Regardless, this is just an astounding place that immerses one into the natural world.
Again, look forward to getting home and celebrating the adventure with friends. Dinner tonight is chili with macaroni, with a nice swig (or two) of bourbon from the flask for dessert.
-----
19 September 2020
Weather Conditions: Overcast turning into rain throughout morning into early afternoon. Partly cloudy into the late-afternoon and evening.
Breakfast: Breakfast skillet (eggs, sausage, bacon, peppers, onion)
Woke up at around 5:30am. Interestingly, both my watch and phone clock were off by an hour. Guess I am now engulfed by nature’s proverbial time warp. Let’s hope the compass doesn’t start acting up, or else we are up shit’s creek.
Had a wonderful, rejuvenating night sleep. Made breakfast and coffee (God bless my portable French press maker). Listening to the birds chipping away. Eventually as I began to clean up camp, I could start to feel a light drizzle. By 7am, I was packed and back onto the trail. Stopped by Pigeon River which serves as the natural border between Canada and the United States to refill on water.
Unfortunately, rain did not stop until noon. Completely drenched from head to toe. Even more, gun shots going off around me. As I neared McFarland Lake State Campground, encountered a group of hikers wearing nothing but blaze orange. We chatted for a bit. I asked them about if there is a hunting season taking place. The taller guy out of the group said that it is opening weekend for bear. When they asked if I had any blaze orange, I responded that I didn’t, but I think my red backpack will help keep me safe (hopefully). They continued east and I kept veering west.
I arrived at the parking lot area for McFarland Lake at around 11am, totaling 6.1 miles. Opened up the BRT log book to read submissions and add my own. The most recent was from two days ago (September 17) which stated, “Had bear encounters both at camp and about a half-mile on the BRT trail. BE CAREFUL!” Heart skipped a couple of beats as I re-read the entry. Added my own, “Arrived to McFarland Lake drenched. Looking forward
to a cozy fire and drying off!”
Selected a campsite and got a fire going. Thankfully there was a large, flat boulder nestled up to the campfire grill. Set up the tent and switched out of clothes. Boots, socks, pants and shirt were drenched. Placed them next to the safe. Unfortunately, I placed them too close… Parts of my boots melted,
socks got charred, and mid-layer shirt also got some charred speckled areas. Guess I will have to make these a new fashion for all trail enthusiasts. Regardless, boots are still in good condition.
Should mention: Last night, I enjoyed reading some Sigurd Olson. Read his “Reflections from the North Country” until I fell fast asleep. It’s full of philosophical thoughts and connection to humanity and nature. Strongly recommend. Will enjoy this compilation along the adventure (and beyond).
The rest of the day is to relax, enjoy McFarland Lake, get some equipment dry and prepare for a longer trip tomorrow. After reviewing the maps, I decided the minimal goal will now be to Gogebic Lake (about 13.4 miles) but will continue to strive for Clearwater East (15 miles from my current location). Based on my pace, I have been doing 6 miles in just over 3 hours. Tomorrow will be more intense, with steep climbs and descents throughout the Boundary Waters.
Thankfully, I do allow my body to get in breaks while sauntering; enjoy snacking on bars and energy bloks. Shoulders tend to get sore from the backpack straps now and then. Just taking it all in good stride (pun intended).
The maps and app have been incredibly resourceful today. Hardly use my phone app as I keep an eye out for the small blue flags. Will remain cognizant of my surroundings and always be prepared for the worst.
Rain stopped in the early afternoon. All my wet clothing and equipment 100% dry again (with minor casualties). Sunset is absolutely breathtaking this evening. Before making dinner, I sat at the shoreline and took in the view of the different worlds I could see. A bountiful sky, a diverse landscape, and a mirroring water surface. So much stillness, yet incredible activity before my eyes.
Dinner composed of lasagna with meat sauce. Another fine dessert of bourbon. Campsite is next to a small creek that flows east out of McFarland Lake. Stars came out and it was a sight that I will forever enjoy being instilled in my archive of cherished memories.
A red squirrel managed to get into my tent. Turned into a Tom and Jerry fiasco: Chasing him out and around the camp. What a little pissant. Eventually, I think we came to terms we can both share the site. He sat on a rock on the opposite side of the fire from me. Good to have company this evening.
Went to bed around 9:30pm and read more Olson until I fell asleep. Woke up about midnight to the sound of a large animal walking in the creek next door. Not sure what it was but sounded thirsty. Fell back to sleep with no cause for alarm.
-----
20 September 2020
Weather Conditions: Sunny and clear. Cool morning, warming up throughout the day.
Breakfast: Cold breakfast skillet (gag)
Woke up to a very brisk but glorious sunrise. Made my coffee and decided to enjoy my breakfast skillet leftovers from the day before. Yep, it was cold and soggy and nasty. I gagged but ate every bite. Packed up camp as my little red squirrel friend climbed down from nearby cedar to see what was going on. I went back down to McFarland Lake to refill on water and savor the mist hovering over the lake surface. Today is going to be an amazing adventure on the trail.
Began hike at 8am from the campground. Again, main goal is to shoot for Clearwater Lake East, or make it to Gogebic Lake. Just depends on how the day progresses.
Weather continues to be pristine. Calm/gentle breeze, clear skies, mild temperatures. Right off the bat there was some major climbing in elevation.
Took the meandering trail with patience continued to incline up the hill. Had an incredible view of a small marsh. As I took out my phone to snap some photos, I heard a grunt behind me. I slowly turned around and there was a black bear roughly 75 feet or so away. We both stared at each other. He seemed tired and cranky, as though I just interrupted him from lounging and also taking in the morning view. “Sorry, pal. Let me take a quick snapshot of this and I will get out of your way.” The bear grunted a bit longer again, as though agreeing but emphasizing to make it quick. Snapped some photos and thanked the bear for the opportunity. The bear grunted again. “Okay, I’m out. Jesus, calm down.” Continued on the trail as the bear had the spot to themself again.
Had some of the most magnificent overviews into Canada and over lakes of all different shapes and sizes. From John Lake, East and West Pike Lakes and Mountain Lake. The exposed rock faces told some incredible tales of how this land was formed. Frequent stops made to soak in the views and reflect on the journey. My lunch break overlooking East Pike Lake was stimulated by the calmness. Noticed a pair canoeing to an island with a campsite. Waved even though I knew they wouldn’t see me.
As I progressed, there was segments where the trail completely disappeared; essentially blending into the undisturbed woods. Those who have never done backpacking or navigated along the trails as this would have a difficult time. I am thankful for my experiences to know how to remain cool, calm and collective and look for the right evidence.
Arrived at Gogebic Lake around 2:30pm, thus conquering 13.4 miles between 8am and now. I was feeling incredibly good and decided to press on after I refilled my water supply.
As I progressed on the trail, I found myself in a small ravine with a small waterfall and stream. Standing there and enjoying the splendor of it all, I hear a loud howl from atop one of the steep hills nearby. There was
a gray wolf standing there looking down at me. Remarkable. We shared the moment together and then I pressed on to respect their space (and hoping they respect my space).
About 1.3 miles later, I was at Clearwater East. Still feeling great, I chose to push it even further: Let’s go to Clearwater West Camp. This adds another 6.3 miles to today’s trip. This may or may not have been a stupid idea. Little did I realize how intense the ascents and descents on the coarse rock would be. However, one moment made it all worth it.
I climbed atop a tall butte that looked west over the western end of Mountain Lake where it also connect to Rove Lake. The rose red, pink and orange hues. The gentle wind. I liked to believe I had this whole place to myself. I knew I had little time to climb down and get to my campsite, but this was sight that could never be replicated again. In case I never came back, I want to savor this moment as long as I can.
The struggle to Clearwater Lake West was balanced with peace, beauty and sound reflections. Arrived at camp around 7pm, totaling 21.3 miles in one day (nearly one-third of the entire Border Route Trail). Feet are swollen, blistered and body feeling battered. Campsite was right along the Clearwater Lake shoreline. The day darkened and the winds picked up. Chose not to build a fire that evening.
Dinner was cold lasagna and finish off the bourbon. The stars came out and sat at the shore to relish the moment some more. Tears of joy and the incredible experience overall, but sad knowing that my time was coming to an end. My finish point, Clearwater Lodge, was not far off. Made camp and hunkered in for the night. Read Sigurd Olson and fell asleep once again to his heartening words of reflecting his connections to the Boundary Waters.
-----
21 September 2020
Weather Conditions: Sunny, clear and warm
Breakfast: Biscuits and gravy
Woke up at 6:30. Holy shit am I ever sore. But I smile knowing it’s a worth it kind of sore. I peeked my head out the tent door and noticed the sun was starting to wake up as well. Put on pants and boots, made coffee. Walked down to the shoreline and sat on a rock to also wish good morning to the sunrise. The day slowly brightened and there we were: The sun and I welcoming a new day of adventure. The water gently slapped off the granite rocks nearby. I remained there for considerable time.
Made breakfast then began to clean and pack up my site. Reviewed my map. Roughly 5.3 miles to the end. There were slight elevation climbs, but nothing as intense as the day before. Most of the remaining trail was straight and smooth. Started out onto the trail at 9am. Was taking it incredibly slow to take pleasure in the final segment. I also imagined Phil Liggett, known as the “Voice of Cycling” commenting on my last few miles: “My goodness ladies and gentlemen. This incredible thru-hiker endured one of the most challenging routes in perhaps all of North America. What a remarkable achievement for that young man!” Made me chuckle along the way pondering that crazy thought.
Encountered a few canoers and kayakers portaging on different lakes. Had some great conversations with all but not sticking around for I reeked of bad odor.
By early afternoon, I had navigated back to Clearwater Lodge. Eric, the manager of the historic locale, welcomed me back and was impressed. He said that a hiker got lost in the area in the last day as they got separated from their group. Luckily it wasn’t me.
As I sat on the wooden steps of the main lodge, I was given the backpack name “Big Cheese.” When I asked how he came up with the name, Eric said: “You’re from Wisconsin
and a pretty brute looking kind of dude. Suits you.” We laughed as I was provided a can of beer to celebrate the completion.
-----
Epilogue
The next two days, I slammed down delicious brew and food from places like Voyageur Brewing in Grand Marais, Earth Rider in Superior and Leinenkugels in Chippewa Falls. I drove back home, delighted to be reunited with family.
A few days later after reacclimating into society, I grabbed my hammock one day and hiked to the top of East Bluff at Devil’s Lake State Park. I wanted to clear the mind and write down my overall reflections from my experiences on the Border Route Trail. Here’s what I had written down in my journal:
“Some sound lessons I came to appreciate, with philosophical and attitude changes after the BRT:"
-Seeking wholeness, being in tune with intangible values of a life nearly abandoned; Don’t escape the old simplicities.
-Can’t forsake technology but find balance between it and the environment.
-(“We are all harvesters and hunters, always looking and hoping for something that will give pleasure to the senses or might be worth keeping for some reason, and just possibly be good to eat.” -Sigurd Olson)
-“I’ve been happier, but can’t remember where.” -Sigurd Olson
-“Perhaps it would be better if we did not eat so well, had more physical work, walked more and rode less, contented ourselves with ideas and other goals that than with material things.” -SFO
-Take off the wristwatch and embark on wilderness time. Days that are counted by daylight and darkness rather than by the hours and minutes. Be calm and remain unhurried.
Lastly, this quote is one I will always say after every outdoor experience: “I have gotten more out of this trip than any other I have ever taken (repeat this after outdoor adventure).”
For more information on the Border Route Trail, please check out the Border Route Trail Association: https://www.borderroutetrail.org
Also check out the current issues facing the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Mining is being proposed and can do major harm to the water, land and wildlife that inhabit one of the most treasured areas of North America: https://www.savetheboundarywaters.org/
Comentarios